Month: April 2018

“In order to establish a proper relationship with pain, many traditions incorporate painful situations as part of spiritual training. On my first trip into Tibet, I traveled to a remote monastery high in the Himalayas. Because I was providing care for the monks, I was allowed to stay inside the monastery, which is usually forbidden. On my first morning I woke up before dawn to the sounds of young monks outside my room. I stepped outside to see the exposed courtyard lined with monks reciting and memorizing texts in the biting cold. The monks were bobbing back and forth furiously trying to stay warm. I was struck with this level of discipline, it seemed nearly abusive to me, so I asked one of the discipline masters pacing behind the monks about this degree of hardship. He replied, ‘Tough on the outside, soft on the inside.’ The discipline forged a resolve in these monks that would serve them as they grew into more demanding spiritual practices. The rigors of the path are always held in the context of tough love. It is rough on the ego but loving to the spirit.” – Andrew Holecek

People often ask me why in the world I would want to hike such long distances over such challenging terrain in such unforgiving weather. When I read the above it struck me as a more useful response than my usual shrug and reply of, “I dunno, I like intense experiences?”  I’d like to think there has always been some wisdom in me that knew pushing myself to become increasingly strong would allow me to become increasingly gentle as well. Something I seem to value more and more these days.

Earlier this week I returned from my final prepatory hike before I embark on the Pacific Crest Trail on May 1.  Returning from South America, I flew directly to Albany NY where my darling mother met me (laden with gear and supplies I had mailed to her) and we drove to Great Barrington MA to spend the night at an inn before I began hiking south towards NYC. After losing several games of mahjong to my ever sharp matriarch (and eating an entire tin homemade cookies) I set off on a cloudy and cool morning to test my will and my skill against nature and the trail.

Continue reading The Long and Winding Road

O Captain! my Captain! our fearful trip is done,
The ship has weather’d every rack, the prize we sought is won,
The port is near, the bells I hear, the people all exulting,
While follow eyes the steady keel, the vessel grim and daring…  -Walt Whitman 

I’m back! Just returned to Iquitos Peru from 12 days deep in the Amazon jungle for a traditional Shipibo plant based healing retreat. The Shipibo are an indigenous people along the Ucayali River in the Amazon rainforest in Perú. In the Shipibo culture, shamans—called curanderos—work as plant-based healers of physical, mental, and spiritual ailments.

Shipibo healing comes from seeing the sacred healing energies that come from the plants. They can be seen as the codes of the Ikaros (songs) that express their healing energies and are seen by the healers in their visions. The Shaman “see the songs” and “hear the designs” at the same time in a phenomenon known as synesthesia, the blending of the senses. The plant doctors’ ikaros work through the Shaman by penetrating the patient’s energy body to heal and protect it.

Seems a decent premise, right? After all, who couldn’t use a little energetic healing and protecting of the body? Turns out it was quite a wild ride. 23 of us jaunty jungle journeyers from all over the world set off to immerse ourselves in a whole new world.

First perhaps a little set and setting. We traveled for an hour by boat from Iquitos up a tributary off of the main river and then hiked for another hour to the center where we got settled in our Tambos (Cabins).  Then off to dinner, which was a continuation of the strict diet we’ve been following for weeks including no pork, red meat, dairy, spicy food, oils, processed food, sugar, alcohol, or caffeine.

Day 1 we awoke, somewhat rested after a mildly disconcerting first night. Turns out the jungle is alive. Very alive. Critters of all shapes and sizes abound. Once I negotiated a truce with my cockroach roommates and shooed away as many mosquitos as I could I settled in under the mosquito netting over my way-too-short bed to be serenaded by a cacophony of jungle sounds. Was that a Jaguar?? I’m pretty sure that was a Jaguar.  He sounds awfully hungry.

Our first event in this magical healing retreat is what’s known as a Vomativo.  Perhaps you can guess what that was.  Yep, pre-breakfast we line up outside to drink a bowl of unknown tea and then as many bowls of warm water as fast as we can until everything comes back out to the light of day.  Hoofa. Ok, stomachs cleansed. Everyone’s system clear. Talk about an icebreaker.

After this vigorous opener our days settled into a more consistent routine.  A personally tailored litany of plant remedies and stimulating ginger oil massages every morning. Group discussions during the day, and flower baths in the evening before the nightly ceremony. Time in between for jungle hikes, lazy naps, personal reflection and spacious conversations.

The main event every day was the evening ceremony. In the lantern lit Maloka (main gathering house) we gathered for a little yoga and meditation before the five Shipibo healers arrived. Once they arrive the lanterns are dimmed and the Ikaros begin. First a group song by all of the healers, and then they rotated around the circle singing to each of us individually. Sort of a personal diagnostic and healing. It was a truly beautiful and powerful experience. Some of the  songs were mournful, and others celebratory. The healers were completely immersed in the singing – fully embodying and manifesting the energy of the songs.

It really was a powerful and magical experience. Such energy in the room. Such reverence. Such connectedness. Just incredible to be able to witness this beautiful and ancient tradition so full of wisdom, love, and healing.

I can honestly say that I feel meaningfully different now. It seems we all felt the shift. No longer as burdened by the unimportant concerns of life. Healthy, internally clean, spacious, and grounded. Through it all we somehow became a family too. Each and every person there became a dear and caring friend. I am truly grateful, to have had a chance to meet and get to know all of them. I also had no shortage of personal insights, but maybe they’re a bit much for the blog today. Forgive me dear reader, but I think I’ll honor them by letting them settle and sink in a bit.

Anyway, after a long and quite varied journey, with no shortage of surprises, my time here in South America is coming to an end. I’m boarding a plane back to the good old U.S. of A. today.  Landing in Albany and hiking 8 days down the Appalachian Trail from Western MA to NYC for a few days in the concrete jungle before heading off for my long awaited start of the Pacific Crest Trail on May 1.  Adios for now and more soon. Until then, here’s a few more jungle pics…